How to Make Sure Your Fireplace is Safe

Here's what to look for to ensure your fireplace is safe and up-to-snuff.

How do you keep your fireplace safe? The best tools you have are your eyes.

With regular visual inspections both inside your home and out, you'll make sure your fireplace is in good shape for the burning season.

Checking From the Outside

Examine the chimney to make sure a chimney cap is present and in good repair. The metal cap keeps animals, rain, and snow out of the chimney, while acting as a spark arrester that prevents hot embers from landing on your roofing.

If you have a multi-story home or a steep roof, play it safe and use a pair of binoculars to check the chimney cap from the ground.

While you're at it, make sure:

            •There's no bird nest or debris buildup on the cap.

            •There are no tree limbs above or near the chimney.

            •The mortar and bricks on the chimney aren't crumbling or missing.

            •The chimney rises at least 2 feet above where it exits the roof.

            •The chimney crown -- the sloping cement shoulders at the top of the chimney -- is beveled, which helps air flow.

            •The flue liner is visible above the chimney crown.

            •The chimney is plumb and not leaning to one side or the other.

            •The roof flashing is tight against the chimney.

If you spot anything amiss, call a licensed chimney professional or mason to remedy the problem. For pricey jobs, make sure to get a second estimate.

Looking Inside Your Home

With a flashlight, inspect the flue damper to make sure it opens, closes, and seals properly.

"If the damper doesn't seal well, you'll lose a tremendous amount of heat from the home when the fireplace isn't in use," explains Gary Spolar, a licensed sweep and owner of Century Chimney in northeast Ohio.

With the damper open, check the flue for combustible material such as animal nests or other foreign objects. You should be able to see daylight at the top.

Inspect the fireplace surround, hearth, and firebox to make sure there are no cracked bricks or missing mortar. Damage inside the firebox is serious -- have a professional fireplace and chimney inspection. (An inspection costs $79-$500.

Also, check for obvious signs of moisture inside the firebox, which could mean a faulty cap.

Inspecting a Gas-Burning Fireplace

We enjoy gas fireplaces because they're low-maintenance -- but that doesn't mean they're no-maintenance. You should:

            •Inspect the glass doors for cracks or latch issues.

            •Check that gas logs are in the proper position.

            •Turn gas off at the shut-off valve and test the igniter.

            •Ignite the fire and look for clogged burner holes. If present, turn off gas and clear obstructions with a pin or needle.

Article From HouseLogic.com | By: Douglas Trattner | Published: 9/18/12

Snow Shoveling: Tools, Techniques, and Tips to Save Your Back

Shoveling is hard enough. Don't compound the drudgery with the wrong shovel and bad shoveling techniques, both of which can put a serious strain on your back and even your heart.

When buying a new snow shovel, common sense says that the larger the shovel scoop, the quicker the work. But that doesn't mean you should automatically shop for the biggest bucket. Snow, particularly wet snow, is heavy, and the bigger the scoop, the more strain you'll put on your neck, shoulders, and back.

Keep the dimensions moderate. A good size for most situations is 18-22 inches wide.

Material of choice

            •High-strength plastic shovels are strong, lightweight, and easy to use. Because they're less prone to freezing, they release snow better than metal shovels. However, constant scraping against concrete walks and driveways can wear out the leading edge in a single season, and they're not good for removing ice.

            •Steel shovels are hard to beat for durability - they'll outlast all others. But they're the heaviest models out there, and require more energy to use. They're also the most expensive. Steel shovels are useful for removing both snow and ice.

            •Aluminum snow shovels are more durable than plastic, and lighter and less expensive than steel. However, aluminum may bend when it comes in contact with a stubborn ice chunk or a crack in a driveway. Once bent, they're difficult to repair.

Getting the shaft

It doesn't matter how strong a shovel blade is if the shaft twists, turns, and bows while you're trying to use it. Look for shovels with a sturdy steel, aluminum, or wooden handles. With their high strength-to-weight ratio, fiberglass and resin handles are the premium choice, although you'll pay up to 20% more than other types of handles.

What'll you pay?

Prices for snow shovels range from as low as $15 for a flimsy plastic model on up to $125 for a solid steel shovel with wooden or fiberglass shaft. Most good-quality shovels, however, fall in the $30 to $50 range.

Ergonomic ease

The snow shovels with the funny-looking Z-shaped shafts are billed as "ergonomic." They're designed to ease the strain on your lower back by reducing the amount of bending you'll do while scooping snow. Prices for well-built ergonomic shovels range from $25 to $75.

Another version includes a large wheel attached to the handle. The wheel supports all the weight of the snow and acts as a fulcrum for lifting snow and helping you move it out of the way. You'll pay $130.

When push comes to shove

When it comes to physical exertion, it's always better to push the snow rather than lift it. Push-type snow shovels or plows are great for driveways (http://www.houselogic.com/photos/landscaping-gardening/cool-driveways-are-smart-approach/) and walks where you can simply shove the snow off to the side.

Because snow pushers are large in size - anywhere from 24 to 36 inches wide - they aren't great for when the snow is deep or has to be thrown over a snow bank. Make sure the width of the snow pusher isn't wider than your narrowest walkways.

Snow pushers and plows usually have large, U-shaped handles. Expect to pay $25 for a plastic 24-inch plow and up to $80 for 30-inch heavy-duty aluminum models.

Safety first

It isn't just a myth that many people get injured from the simple act of shoveling snow. In fact, according to a study by the Center for Injury Research and Policy (http://www.nationwidechildrens.org/cirp-snow-shoveling), there are more than 11,000 medical emergencies each year related to shoveling snow.

The study found that just two minutes of shoveling snow can stress your cardiovascular system and raise heart rates past recommended levels. Singled out for blame: the non-ergonomic design of many snow shovels.

To reduce the risk of injury, the American Academy of Orthopedic Surgeons suggests you do the following:

            •Check with your doctor to make sure you're healthy enough to shovel.

            •Dress appropriately in layers of light, water-repellent clothing. Don't forget the hat, gloves, and slip-resistant boots.

            •Clear snow early and often. It's easier to remove large snowfalls in multiple phases than all at once.

            •Warm up before starting. Stretch or perform light exercise for 10 minutes before shoveling.

            •Pace yourself, take frequent breaks, and stay hydrated by drinking water throughout.

            •Push, rather than lift, the snow whenever possible.

            •When lifting snow, bend at the knees with a straight back.

            •When moving snow, walk and dump it as opposed to throwing it.

Alternatives include safely using a snow blower or hiring a snow-removal contractor. When doing the latter, the Better Business Bureau (BBB) recommends that you get multiple estimates, understand the difference between per-season and per-incident pricing, discuss what's included (shoveling the front walk?), request references, and get it all in writing.

Article From HouseLogic.com | By: Douglas Trattner | Published: 12/15/11

How to Kill and Prevent Bathroom Mold

Got bathroom mold? Here's how to get rid of it and prevent future infestations, too.

If you've never experienced bathroom mold, perhaps you aren't looking deep enough into the corners of your bathroom.

It's one of the most common problems in any house; it's also one of the easiest to prevent and cure -- as long as you haven't let it get out of hand.

"Bathroom mold occurs primarily because mold loves damp, dark, isolated spaces," says Larry Vetter of Vetter Environmental Services in Smithtown, N.Y. "Typically, a bathtub, shower, or entire bathroom remains damp enough for mold growth just from showering or bathing."

Common Causes of Bathroom Mold

            •Lingering moisture caused by lack of ventilation.
            •Leaky toilets, sinks, and plumbing.

            •Damp cellulose materials such as rugs, paper products, wood, wallpaper, grout, drywall, and fabric.

So how do you know if you have a mold problem? Matt Cinelli, owner/operator of AERC Removals in North Attleboro, Mass., says, "If you can see it or smell it, you've got it."

Finding the Mold in Your Bathroom

Bathroom mold isn't always obvious. Check out hidden areas, such as under sinks, access doors to shower and bath fixtures, around exhaust fans, even in crawl spaces and basements underneath bathrooms.

"It could be starting in the bathroom but actually forming in another room," says Cinelli, adding that lack of proper ventilation is the biggest culprit for mold growth.

Preventing Mold

The best defense is preventing mold from occurring in the first place. Yashira Feliciano, director of housekeeping for Conrad Conado Plaza Hotel in San Juan, Puerto Rico, offers the following tips for keeping mold out of your bathroom:

            •Use your bathroom ventilation fan when you shower or bathe, and leave it on for 30 minutes following the end of your bath; if you don't have an exhaust fan, install one.

            •Keep household humidity levels below 50%; an air conditioner or dehumidifier can help.

            •Use a mildew-resistant shower curtain, and wash or replace it frequently.

            •Don't keep bottles of shampoo or shower gel, toys, or loofahs in the shower, as they provide places for mold to grow and hide.

            •Wash your bathroom rugs frequently.

Getting Rid of Mold

What do you do if mold growth is already a problem? As long as the infestation isn't large, you can take remedial measures yourself:

            •Strip away and replace any caulking or sealant that has mold growth.

            •Clean your bathroom with mold-killing products such as bleach, vinegar, and hydrogen peroxide

            •Open windows and doors while cleaning to provide fresh air and help dry out the mold.

If you have a problem area bigger than 10 sq. ft., refer to guidelines from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or call in a professional.

"When you see it creeping into walls and insulation, you need a professional," says Cinelli, who notes that tearing out walls (which may be necessary for a big problem) can release mold spores into the rest of the house and create an even bigger issue.

"The idea is to kill it and then remove it," he says. "And the most important thing is to figure out why you have it before you clean it up."

Article From HouseLogic.com | By: Deborah R. Huso | Published: January 14, 2013

Do-It-Yourself Home Security Check: 5 Essential Steps

Conduct a do-it-yourself home security check by walking around your house to assess what needs to be done to reduce the risk of a break-in.

A professionally installed and monitored home security system is a nice addition to your home's defenses, but it shouldn't be step one. First, conduct your own home security check. After you've inspected your home's doors and windows, make sure these essential steps are covered:

1. Keep your home well-maintained on the outside.

Burglars want an easy target. Stand on the street outside your house and ask yourself: Does my property look neglected, hidden, or uninhabited? A front door or walkway that's obscured by shrubbery offers crooks the perfect cover they need while they break a door or window. To improve security, trim shrubs away from windows and widen front walks.

2. Install motion detector lights.

All sides of your house should be well-lit with motion-activated lighting, not just the front. Simple motion-activated floodlights cost less than $50 each, and installing them is an easy DIY job if the wiring is already in place.

3. Store your valuables.

Thieves want easy-to-grab electronics, cash, jewelry, and other valuables, though some are not above running down the street with your flat-screen TV. Most make a beeline for the master bedroom, because that's where you're likely to hide spare cash, jewelry, even guns. Tour each room and ask yourself: is there anything here that I can move to a safe deposit box? Installing a home safe ($150 to $500) that's bolted to your basement slab is a good repository for items you don't use on a daily basis.

4. Secure your data.

While you probably won't be putting your home computer in a safe anytime soon, take steps to back up the personal information stored on it. Password protect your login screen, and always shut off your computer when not in use (you'll save energy, too!) Don't overlook irreplaceable items whose value may hard to quantify, like digital photos.

5. Prepare ahead of time in case the worst happens.

            •Take a photo or video inventory of items of value in your home, and store the file online or in your home safe.

            •Check that you're properly insured for theft. Note that high-ticket items in your home office, such as computers, professional camera equipment, or other business essentials, may require an additional rider or a separate policy.

Article From HouseLogic.com | By: Joseph D'Agnese | Published: 11/12/10

How to Replace Weather Stripping

When weather stripping on doors and windows gets worn out, cold air comes sneaking in. Here's how to replace weather stripping and stop air leaks.

Weather stripping on windows and doors protects the home from air leaks while increasing comfort and saving energy. But as weather stripping ages, it loses its effectiveness. Stay ahead of the game by checking for worn-out weather stripping and replacing it.

Identifying Worn Weather Stripping

Weather stripping deteriorates due to age, friction, and exposure to the elements. It also can be damaged by people, pets, and pests. At least once each year, inspect your windows and doors to check for air leaks that indicate your weather stripping isn't doing its job.

            •Self-adhesive foam tape loses its grip over time, causing it to pull away from the door or window frame -- or fall off completely. Foam also can lose its resilience, no longer springing up to fill the gap.

            •Rubber and vinyl weather stripping becomes dry, brittle, and cracked. Over time, it can also lose its shape and effectiveness.

            •Spring-metal V-shaped weather stripping bends out of shape, cracks in spots, and comes loose thanks to missing nails.

How to Remove Old Weather Stripping

For peel-and-stick-type weather stripping, simply pull the foam strips off the door or window by hand. Stripping that is fastened in place with nails or screws requires a more tedious process of locating and removing all the fasteners.

Options for New Weather Stripping

There's no shortage of weather stripping options at hardware stores and home improvement centers. As is often the case, the cheaper and easier the product is to install, the less effective and durable it probably is over time.

Adhesive-backed foam tape is inexpensive - costing less than a buck a foot - and peel-and-stick types are easy as pie to install. It works best where the bottom of a window sash closes against a sill, or a door closes against a doorframe. It's the compression that produces the seal. Don't expect this product to survive longer than 3 to 5 years.

V-shaped weather stripping, sometimes called tension-seal weather stripping, is the best option for the side channels of a double-hung window or a tight-fitting door. This product springs open to close gaps and plug leaky windows and doors.

Inexpensive peel-and-stick V-shaped vinyl (as little as $0.50 per foot) is easy to install but won't last much longer than foam tape. More expensive copper or bronze styles cost as much as $2 per foot and must be nailed into place, but they look better and will last decades.

Tubular rubber or vinyl gaskets prove the most effective for sealing large and irregular gaps, such as around an old door. These hollow tubes are large enough to plug big gaps but soft enough to compress nearly flat. Types that are nailed in place last longer than peel-and-stick varieties. Prices range from less than $1 per foot for peel-and-stick to $1.25 per foot for nail-in-place.

Prepare the Surface

Before installing any new weather stripping, start with a smooth, clean, and dry surface. Remove all old adhesive using an adhesive cleaner and perhaps a light sanding. Fill and sand old nail holes. If old screw holes can't be reused, fill and sand those as well.

Installation Tips

            •Some peel-and-stick types should only be applied when the temps are at least 50 degrees. Check the product label.

            •Start with one small area to make sure the door or window opens and closes without difficulty before completing the entire job.

            •Measure twice before cutting to prevent mistakes and waste.

            •Cut rubber and vinyl varieties with shears or a utility knife, and metal types with tin snips. Be careful not to bend the thin metal while cutting it.

            •Make sure to face the opening of V-shaped weather stripping out toward the elements to prevent moisture from getting inside.

Installing Weather Stripping

Adhesive-style weather stripping: Remove the backing and press firmly in place. Removing the backing as you go helps prevent the sticky part of the strip from accidentally adhering to something it shouldn't.

Nail-in weather stripping: Fasten the strips in place by nailing through the pre-punched holes. For double-hung windows, you'll need to install the lower half, drop the sash, and then install the upper half.

Related: The Smart, Low-Cost Way to Reduce Your Energy Bills

Article From HouseLogic.com | By: Douglas Trattner | Published: 10/26/12

Fed Shutdown Won’t Throw Big Wrench in Your Refi or Home Loan Plans

USDA rural loans, FHA reverse mortgages, and Title 1 home improvement loans are another story.

If you're worried about the federal government shutdown because you're refinancing your mortgage or buying a home with help from an FHA (http://www.houselogic.com/home-topics/fha/), VA, or Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac loan program, or you need federal flood insurance, relax. The shutdown isn't likely to cause many problems for you -- other than slower service.

But if you're planning to use the U.S. Department of Agriculture 502 rural housing loan program, which helps folks buy homes in rural areas, you're toast until Congress agrees to fund the federal government again.

USDA's rural housing loan program typically runs out of money at the end of the fiscal year (Sept. 30), if not sooner, and then starts making loans again when the next fiscal year starts Oct. 1. This year, there's no FY 2014 budget agreement so that means no more USDA home loans until Congress funds a budget. However, if your lender got a conditional approval before the shutdown, the lender can move forward on your loan.

Here's the rundown on the homeownership programs that will (mostly) stay open even while the federal government is shuttered:

FHA will continue to insure most loans because its guarantees support the health and stability of the U.S. mortgage market. Expect some delays because of staffing shortages.

Two FHA exceptions: You won't be able to get an FHA reverse mortgage (Home Equity Conversion Mortgage) or a Title I home improvement loan until the agency reopens.

The VA's loan program will go on because it's funded by veterans' loan fees. As with FHA, expect some delays related to staffing.

Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac loan programs will be up and running because they aren't federal agencies (although they're under federal conservatorship).

FEMA will continue to sell and service flood insurance policies and fund disaster relief for homeowners, since the program is funded by premiums and not taxes. The shutdown won't affect the flood insurance program rate changes set to kick in on Oct. 1, 2013.

Article From HouseLogic.com | By: Dona DeZube | Published: October 01, 2013

Understanding Energy Ratings for Windows and Doors

Qualifying for the $200-$500 federal tax credit on new windows and doors depends on two measurements, U-factor and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient.

Just because windows or doors are Energy Star-labeled doesn't mean they're eligible for a federal tax credit. And with costs running about $500-$1,000 per window including labor, it's wise to know something about the scientific lingo and numbers on the product labels you're likely to encounter. Here's your pro-level label-decoding guide so you can be sure you're buying qualified products.

Which Labels Matter?

 The two labels you should look for: The U.S. Department of Energy's blue-and-yellow Energy Star label, which specifies the climate zones the product is certified for, and the white National Fenestration Rating Council label. Nonprofit NFRC is the industry-recognized certifying body for windows and doors. It reports raw numbers only; Energy Star tells you whether those numbers constitute superior performance, putting its seal of approval on those products that meet its standards.

To confuse matters, DOE has issued a blue label that manufacturers can use to signify that a product qualifies for the tax credit. But DOE doesn't require that manufacturers include it.

 What You Need to Get the Tax Credit

For windows or doors to qualify for the credit, two NFRC-supplied measurements must each be equal to or less than 0.3, regardless of climate: U-factor and solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC). You must also have the manufacturer's signed statement that the product complies with IRS requirements. This either comes with purchase or can be downloaded from the manufacturer's website.

Don't be swayed by ratings the manufacturer may post on its own label. A window or door's frame and other components (weather stripping, sidelights, transoms) can significantly affect its energy efficiency, so NFRC measures based on the entire unit, not just the window glass or door slab alone. Manufacturers, on the other hand, sometimes report values that don't take the entire unit into account, according to Energy Star.

 A Guide to Measurements

The NFRC label typically lists five measurements, including the tax credit-critical U-factor and SHGC. The other three are somewhat less important to energy performance, according to Energy Star, but can help you judge how well a window or door will perform in a particular application-for example, whether it'll let in enough light.

 Where you live affects which measurements are most important, but the tax credit requirements are uniform across the country. There are four Energy Star climate zones, differentiated by whether heating, cooling, or a mix of the two is most critical to energy performance.

 1. U-Factor

Range: 0.20 to 1.20

The lower the number, the better an insulator the window or door is.

Tax credit qualification requirement: 0.3 or less

Efficient Windows Collaborative climate recommendations:

            •Northern: 0.35 or less

            •North Central or South Central: 0.4 or less

            •Southern: 0.60 or less

A low U-factor means that less heat escapes in the winter, which makes it particularly important in cold northern climates, according to the Collaborative, a coalition of government agencies, research organizations, and manufacturers that promote efficient window technology.

 2. Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC)

Range: 0 to 1

The lower the number, the less solar radiation-and heat-the window or door allows inside.

Tax credit qualification requirement: 0.3 or less

 EWC climate recommendations:

            •Northern: The highest you can find (paired with a low U-factor) if cooling isn't a significant concern; up to 0.55 if cooling is a significant concern.

            •North Central: 0.4 or less for climates with significant air conditioning; up to 0.55 for climates with moderate air conditioning.

            •South Central or Southern: 0.4 or less.

SHGC refers to the solar radiation a window or door allows inside. Seek the lowest possible SHGC rating in warm climates to minimize the use of air conditioning. Look for a slightly higher number in cooler climates so that the sun can help heat your home in winter, but be sure to balance SHGC with an efficient U-factor for your area.

3. Visible Transmittance

 Range: 0 to 1

Lower number means the room will be dimmer; a higher number means the room will be brighter.

Tax credit qualification requirement: none

 This number applies to windows or doors with windows only. Visible transmittance is the amount of light a window allows to pass through. With older window glazing techniques, VT and solar heat gain were basically the same; the brighter a room, the hotter it got. But new technologies allow windows to let in lots of light while the room stays cool.

 Consult VT numbers if you're looking to reduce glare in a room or fill it with natural light, but be warned that a very low VT may mean you have to use artificial lighting even during the day.

 4. Air Leakage

Range: N/A, but .0.3 is standard building code

The lower the number, the more airtight the window or door.

Tax credit qualification requirement: none

This number, expressed in cubic feet per minute per square foot of window/door area, represents the amount of air that the window or door's frame allows to pass through. Energy Star standards don't consider air leakage because it's difficult to measure accurately and can change over time as frame materials expand, contract, or warp in place, according to the EWC. Still, this measurement can help you compare similar products, especially if they'll be buffeted by the elements.

 5. Condensation Resistance

Range: 1 to 100

The lower the number, the more condensation the window or door allows to build up.

Tax credit qualification requirement: none

 Condensation resistance is a measure of how much moisture a window or door allows to build up on the surface (which can drip onto wood and cause mold or discoloration) or between glazing layers (which can't be clean and blocks your view). Energy Star-rated windows tend to resist condensation well, so this number won't likely affect your purchase decision.

Article From HouseLogic.com | By: Karin Beuerlein | Published: 01/04/13

Halloween Home Maintenance: Spooky Sounds and Strange Smells

Are you haunted by strange noises and weird odors? With the proper maintenance, you've got more than a ghost of a chance to rest easy.

Creaking and Popping in the Night

The many materials that make up your house - wood framing, plywood, glass, metal ducts, nails, plumbing pipes (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/electrical/replacing-plumbing-pipes-costs-and-options/) - all expand and contract at different rates.

When a house cools at night, these materials may move slightly, rubbing against each other and making noises. Occasionally, they'll contract with an audible pop.

These sounds tend to be more noticeable in fall, when warm days give way to rapidly cooling nights. The bad news? Not much you can do about it. The good news? Those sounds are harmless and normal.

Zombie Odor

It's either time to throw out the garbage, or you'd better call your gas utility (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/heating-cooling/how-read-your-gas-utility-bill/) to check on your gas lines and connections.

Natural gas is odorless, but natural gas suppliers add a foul-smelling odorant -- butyl mercaptan - to alert occupants to any leaks. The smell is like rotten eggs.

Leaks can occur at your gas-fired water heater, fireplace, clothes dryer, and any gas line. Leaking natural gas is potentially dangerous - leave the house and call your natural gas provider to assess the situation. Most utility companies perform safety checks for free.

Footsteps in the Attic

Amplified by an unfinished attic space, a raccoon or even a good-size squirrel on your roof might sound like an ax murderer is doing the polka overhead.

These rooftop transits are normal for critters - roofs offer a nice long unobstructed highway.

Make sure your soffit, rafter, and gable roof vents are covered with screens and in good shape, or your rooftop buddies might find their way into your attic for real. Trim back branches that provide critters easy access to your roof (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/home-thoughts/inspecting-and-maintaining-your-roof/).

Something's Burning

You can smell the odor of burnt wood, but the smoke detectors aren't going off and there's no smoke in the house. The culprit could be your fireplace - even if you haven't had a fire for days.

The probable cause is a drafty chimney and negative air pressure in your home, meaning that outside air is infiltrating down your chimney, bringing stale burnt smells with it.

Stop drafts by making sure your damper has a good seal. Regulate air pressure by adding more cold air return ducts to your HVAC system (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/heating-cooling/hvac-maintenance/). You'll get rid of the odor and save on your energy bill (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/saving-energy/utility-energy-rebates/), too.

Moaning and Clattering

These classic spooky sounds often show up when the wind blows and there's a storm brewing.

Vents for clothes dryers, bathrooms, and water heaters (http://www.houselogic.com/home-advice/water-heaters/water-heater-maintenance/) exit out the roof or the side of the house. To prevent backdrafts, these vents have dampers - flaps designed to let vented air out and prevent outside air from coming in. These flaps sometimes move and rattle in high winds.

Because dampers often are located in attics or in between floor joists, the sound can be difficult to pinpoint. You may need a new damper ($85).

Article From HouseLogic.com | By: John Riha | Published: 10/27/11